Understanding Different Weaves and Fabric Compositions

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Understanding Different Weaves and Fabric Compositions

The fabric is the foundation of every garment. Its quality lends a unique character to the piece - just like in cooking, if the base ingredients are of average quality, the finished product will inevitably suffer.

L’armure désigne le tissage où s’entrecroisent, dans un même plan, des fils disposés dans le sens de la chaîne et des fils disposés, perpendiculairement, dans le sens de la trame. Le liage obtenu entre ces fils de chaîne et de trame se définit par une armure et donne naissance au tissu.

There are numerous weaves and sub-weaves (e.g., poplin, gabardine), but it's essential to remember that we generally categorize weaves into three main classes: canvas, twill, and satin. Patterns (houndstooth, Prince of Wales, stripes, etc.) are independent of the weave, even though they are commonly found on twill or canvas fabrics. This is why it’s not entirely accurate to refer to a garment as simply "canvas" or "satin"; it’s better to specify "a cotton canvas," "a wool satin," or "a silk satin." The weave is not a "material"!

Weight also plays a significant role in the feel and drape of the fabric. Depending on the desired finish of a garment, different weights are favored! However, it’s important to note that a heavier fabric is not necessarily of higher quality, nor is a lighter one inherently inferior. The subtlety in selecting a good fabric lies in finding the right combination of composition, weave, weight, and finishing, all tailored to the intended design and look.